Factual Facial Friday
Between Rituals: Acid Mantle & Skincare Travel Tips
When on vacation, the absolute worst thing happened. As soon as I landed and I couldn't stand it— It popped up... All red, shiny, and new. It was a pimple. A comedone. A non-invited facial phenomenon. So listen to what I am telling you.. Stay on your routine and never deter. Keep your hands clean and face free from bacteria! hydrate internally then protect, and you can never go wrong!
Poem contribution by Taylor Stevenson, Founder & Lead Esthetician
Travel Skincare Tips from the Ritual Room
Invest in a good travel size brand to lightly refresh your skin after you land, especially for longer flights. I notice that even when I do my morning ritual before I travel, I still experience dryness once I land. Dryness = imbalance in moisture barrier = breathing ground for oil overproduction = breakouts.
Bring a gentle routine Carry-on-friendly sizes of the following: • pH-balanced cleanser • Hydrating facial mist • Serum • Moisturizer • SPF (TSA tip: liquids must be 3.4 oz / 100ml or less.)
Travel Sets we love… Travel Clear Skin Kit by Bolden
Facial Spray we love Like Butter Mist by Topicals. Facial mists to help hydrate and refresh post flights. If it has antibacterial properties, it’s a bonus!
Wipe everything down Think when you place your phone on the table and then answer a call or lean your head against the table now all of those little micro-organisms are now all over your face, festering little free radicals! Gross…
Clean hands to face, always. When you travel your skin has so many extrinsic factors that may affect its state such as excessive heat or extreme cold, change in altitude, humidity, and pollution. All of those factors are already working against a harmonious moisture barrier (soft, supple, and resilient) and acid mantle so focus on what you can control such as limiting oxidative stress and free radical damage by washing your hands before touching your face.
Wear SPF. Sunscreen not only protects you from UV ray light, but it also shields against oxidative and free radical damage.
Why do you breakout when traveling? No, it’s not the vacation breaking you out but…There are so many factors that go into the disruption of your acid mantle. The acid mantle acts as a protective layer on the skin’s surface which is made up of sebum (waxy like oil) and sweat. A healthy pH is 4-5.5, slightly acidic. If this pH is thrown off it could lead to redness, irritation, dryness, and/or breakouts.
What can throw a healthy pH off? Mainly it is either the products you are using and/or something deeper such as a hormonal imbalance. Androgens (testosterone + dihydrotestorone (DHT)) influence how much oil your sebaceous glands produce; subsequently an uptick in androgens typically leads to excess sebum then combine with dead skin cells you are bound to encounter acne from blocked pores. However, if you are experiencing dry, thin, flaky skin it could be due to a drop in estrogen and progesterone. Counterbalancing androgens by promoting moisture retention, collogen production, and even tone.
Along with intrinsic factors such as pH, hormones, and genetics; there are extrinsic factors that also contribute to the state of your acid mantle.
Products are the leading reason why you may experience a disruption within the pH of the skin. Products that are too alkaline (basic) are lower than a 6.5 on the pH scale will throw the acid mantle off causing dryness, redness, and irritation within the skin if used incorrectly. A healthy skin cannot thrive within this state making conditions such as acne or eczema more prevalent. A few ways to counteract unbalanced acid mantle…
STOP using any products that contain excessive fragrance, sulfates, and/or alcohol these products are known to be drying instead opt for an oil-based cleanser (side note: oil-based cleansers do not affect the pH of your skin they absorb excess sebum) or pH balanced lipid cleanser.
LIMIT exfoliation. Yes, exfoliating is beneficial aiding in cellular turnover and by removing excessive sebum it allows for better absorption of other products but if used excessively it can deteriorate the skin barrier by removing to much of your natural oils leading to irritation and inflammation.
TRY cycling your exfoliant/s 2-3x a week based on sensitivity of the skin and protect during the day with UV protectant sunscreen.
So how does this all pertain to travel? High altitudes = low humidity= dry skin; from what was learned from the acid mantle the lack of moisture within the barrier will cause the skin to naturally attempt to restore itself by producing more oils. Unavoidably clogging pores in the process. Along with changes in diet. Not just what you’re eating but how you’re eating it. For example, are you eating foods that are eaten with your hands? If you answer yes, then account for its greasiness and the likelihood of that grease resting somewhere on your face. It is more likely that you will touch your face, whipping and spreading bacteria with unclean hands. You also may have a disruption in your normal skin routine, and experience the stress of traveling.
Estie Elementary:
pH- potential hydrogen; only products containing a hydrogen atom can be tested therefore products using oil cannot have a pH.
Acid Mantle- considered the “4th layer of skin,” invisible top layer of the skin that consists of sebum and sweat. Thrives in a pH of 4-5.5.
Moisture Barrier- Stratum Corneum outermost layer of your skin, consists of skin cells and lipids. Its main function is to keep moisture in while keeping bacteria out.